The bird watching life list is a record kept by the birders. This also serves as a tracker device for the people involved in the activity and for those who are conducting related studies. And this is a very important tool for those who love the action and actually has the passion for such.
Bird Watchers
The people that are being categorized as bird watchers are those who are only starting out. Everybody who is into this activity first become a bird watcher or just a mere observer. Their curiosity actually lead them to look and then look more until they've developed a habit of looking farther to see what the birds are doing and how they do it.
For such type, a journal would be fine. This is where they jot down their observations for the purpose of not forgetting. These notes would actually be helpful if they take their hobby to a different level, by being a birder. But for now, let the simple note taking do it for them. Theirs is more simple task because what they see is far from scientific because they still don't have the equipment and the ability to see beyond what their naked eyes seem to tell them.
Birders
These are the more passionate people about the craft. They are not merely hobbyists, they do this to study and relate their observation with scientific research. This group would invest on materials to strengthen their claims. They are always on the lookout for the newest technology that could help them navigate more thoroughly. Birders go where the birds are.
Through research, they go the extra mile to travel where the birds that they haven't seen or haven't been seen by many are situated. The keep track of what happened on their journey. They take notes along the way.
Life List
This is what the electronic or written records contain. Such things can be done by the birders. As they search for the species, the venues in which they could find more types, and looking out for yet to be discovered kinds of birds, they contain it all in a life list.
The information in a life list should include where a certain type of bird was seen, classifying the bird and the date when it was seen. Noting what the bird's usual activities are and how they went on about such is also part of this.
The birders have variety and long list of this kind. It shows their history as an enthusiast of how far they have gone in terms of the activity and how much they have already seen and learned in the process.
They can always go back to this data to change or modify some information depending on their further observation. This is the reason why as days or years go by and as the number of life lists being made by a birder piles up the data gear more towards being scientific because more proofs are available when anyone tries to contest what was recorded.
Keeping a bird watching life list would also benefit people in the future. As the study about the different types of birds become more and more varied, people can always refer on the information provided by the birders on this list for further researches to become more and more accurate.
2008年8月24日星期日
2008年8月19日星期二
Horses and Training Techniques To Use
Horses can be boarded at a commercial stable; however, keeping a horse on your property provides you with more management control, and saves you money.
Let your child know that the owner of the horse should be ready to take on the responsibilities of grooming, exercising, feeding, washing, playing with and caring for the animal.
Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while it's gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.
Let's talk a little about your horse and the time it's going to take to get him from where he is at now to being a green broke horse. Now your horse is starting to think, “Great! That’s all he wanted.
It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree he’s worth it.
No matter your horsey interest, these terms are regularly tossed about the barn; learn them and you will be well on your way to interpreting the horse world language. After this is done, use a damp sponge or cotton to clean the eyes and nose of the horse.
Having good control leading your horse is perhaps the most basic training technique there is. Very quickly, the horse associates the word "whoa" with slowing down instead of stopping.
I would like you to remember that when I use terms such as horse training and natural horsemanship I am actually referring to playing with your horse. One must equal the other, rider and animal, because no matter how well trained the horse, if the rider does not understand this training, then the horse will not work well.
Let your child know that the owner of the horse should be ready to take on the responsibilities of grooming, exercising, feeding, washing, playing with and caring for the animal.
Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while it's gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.
Let's talk a little about your horse and the time it's going to take to get him from where he is at now to being a green broke horse. Now your horse is starting to think, “Great! That’s all he wanted.
It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree he’s worth it.
No matter your horsey interest, these terms are regularly tossed about the barn; learn them and you will be well on your way to interpreting the horse world language. After this is done, use a damp sponge or cotton to clean the eyes and nose of the horse.
Having good control leading your horse is perhaps the most basic training technique there is. Very quickly, the horse associates the word "whoa" with slowing down instead of stopping.
I would like you to remember that when I use terms such as horse training and natural horsemanship I am actually referring to playing with your horse. One must equal the other, rider and animal, because no matter how well trained the horse, if the rider does not understand this training, then the horse will not work well.
2008年8月12日星期二
Soft Or Hard Dog Food – Which Is Best?
Sometimes dog owners are faced with a dilemma regarding what type pf dog food to provide their dogs. Dogs themselves tend to prefer the moist, canned types of food. They are more aromatic and naturally tempting to the dog’s palate than the dry kibble that comes in a bag. A dog’s dental health, however, relies on the dog being able to chew hard and crunchy items and dry kibble foods serve this purpose well. What’s an owner to do?
Some owners make a two pronged approach when selecting dog food for their furry friends. They will mix a portion of dry food with canned, effectively giving their dog the “best of both worlds.” If you are feeding canned food to your dog, you’ll definitely want to supplement it in some way with something that the dog can chew and crunch. Chew toys and dog biscuits or treats can help to serve this purpose.
Remember that a dog’s health depends greatly on the nutritional value of its food. A dog is only as healthy as the food that it eats, in many respects. The food you buy for your dog should meet its nutritional needs as best as possible, whether it is dry or moist. Unfortunately when it comes to dog food you get what you pay for. Store brands and generics tend to be made with cheaper ingredients and lots of fillers. They’ll feed your dog, but they may not be the best choices for it. The more expensive brands like Science Diet and Eukanuba which advertise that they are “specially formulated” really, to a certain extent, are. They will have higher quality ingredients and are better suited to meet your dog’s needs.
Truly, as long as you are providing a good method for your dog to work out its choppers on a regular basis, it doesn’t matter whether you’re using dry food or moist. During regular veterinary checkups your vet will examine the dog’s teeth and will warn you if there’s any issue that needs to be corrected by providing a different type of food or some dietary supplement.
The reason that dogs need to be able to chew on hard materials is twofold. It strengthens their teeth and works out the muscles of their jaw, keeping the teeth strong and the jaws powerful. It also provides a form of dental care. Owners should brush their dogs’ teeth at least twice a week. If this is not possible, however, crunchy foods like kibble and biscuits act as a sort of natural toothbrush for the dog, loosening plaque and tartar and cleaning the teeth.
Choosing the right food for your dog is important, both for the pooch’s nutritional needs and its good dental health. If you prefer to provide your dog the tastier soft, moist foods that come in a can that’s fine, just make sure you’re also providing something for Rover to really sink his teeth into.
Some owners make a two pronged approach when selecting dog food for their furry friends. They will mix a portion of dry food with canned, effectively giving their dog the “best of both worlds.” If you are feeding canned food to your dog, you’ll definitely want to supplement it in some way with something that the dog can chew and crunch. Chew toys and dog biscuits or treats can help to serve this purpose.
Remember that a dog’s health depends greatly on the nutritional value of its food. A dog is only as healthy as the food that it eats, in many respects. The food you buy for your dog should meet its nutritional needs as best as possible, whether it is dry or moist. Unfortunately when it comes to dog food you get what you pay for. Store brands and generics tend to be made with cheaper ingredients and lots of fillers. They’ll feed your dog, but they may not be the best choices for it. The more expensive brands like Science Diet and Eukanuba which advertise that they are “specially formulated” really, to a certain extent, are. They will have higher quality ingredients and are better suited to meet your dog’s needs.
Truly, as long as you are providing a good method for your dog to work out its choppers on a regular basis, it doesn’t matter whether you’re using dry food or moist. During regular veterinary checkups your vet will examine the dog’s teeth and will warn you if there’s any issue that needs to be corrected by providing a different type of food or some dietary supplement.
The reason that dogs need to be able to chew on hard materials is twofold. It strengthens their teeth and works out the muscles of their jaw, keeping the teeth strong and the jaws powerful. It also provides a form of dental care. Owners should brush their dogs’ teeth at least twice a week. If this is not possible, however, crunchy foods like kibble and biscuits act as a sort of natural toothbrush for the dog, loosening plaque and tartar and cleaning the teeth.
Choosing the right food for your dog is important, both for the pooch’s nutritional needs and its good dental health. If you prefer to provide your dog the tastier soft, moist foods that come in a can that’s fine, just make sure you’re also providing something for Rover to really sink his teeth into.
2008年8月11日星期一
Is Your Dog At Risk Of Canine Influenza?
Canine influenza is a fairly recent addition to the list of things we have to worry about when it comes to our dogs. Although the widespread epidemic of suggested by the media does not exist, it is certainly a disease that is spreading and that we should be aware of if we live or work with dogs.
It was discovered in Florida during research into the causes of kennel cough amongst greyhounds, and is thought to be a variation of horse influenza. It is an airborne disease and is most likely to be found where many dogs are housed in close proximity to each other. Roughly 16% of dogs who are exposed to the disease develop symptoms, and of these cases, about 6% prove fatal.
The symptoms of canine influenza are a high fever, coughing and sneezing, a runny nose, excessive lethargy or depression and a lack of appetite. Of course, many other illnesses are characterised by coughing and sneezing so you shouldn't immediately assume your dog has influenza, but if you are concerned you should consult your veterinarian, particularly of your dog's temperature reaches 106 degrees.
Canine influenza is a virus and therefore does not respond to antibiotics. In severe cases, the damage to the respiratory system leads to a secondary pneumonia infection, and it is this that usually causes deaths. Pneumonia is treatable with antibiotics and a high fluid intake, so the number of fatal cases of influenza can be reduced. Research into a vaccine for canine influenza is currently in progress, but it may not be available for another couple of years.
If you are planning on leaving your dog in kennels you should check their policy on respiratory infections. Ask whether they isolate any dog that develops an infection, whether it is influenza or something less harmful such as kennel cough. Also make sure that they will inform you if your dog has come into contact with another dog with a respiratory infection.
A recent case in Pittsburgh saw the high quality boarding facility, Misty Pines, temporarily closed because thirty of their dogs developed canine influenza. None of the dogs died and the facility was reopened once the infection had run its course. Canine influenza is only infectious for ten days and has an incubation period of two to five days so it is perfectly safe for dogs to board there again now the infection has gone.
Although the infection is more common in places where dogs are grouped together, you shouldn't let this put you off buying a dog from a shelter. You will, however, want to check the shelter's policy on new arrivals. Do they isolate them for the first few days to ensure they don't have the infection? If you already have a dog at home, you may want to keep your new pet separate from them for a few days just to be on the safe side.
Canine influenza does not pose any risk to humans as they cannot become infected. However it is believed that humans can carry the virus on their hands, clothes and shoes so you should be aware of this. In some cases it is believed that employees of dog shelters or kennels have transmitted the virus to their own dogs in this way.
Although canine influenza is clearly an issue that you should be aware of, and take precautions against, you should not let it stop your dog from living life as usual. And you should not stop using your usual pet facilities. If you want to find out about any outbreaks of the virus in your area contact your local veterinarian or the state veterinary medical association, who will be able to give you local information and some peace of mind.
It was discovered in Florida during research into the causes of kennel cough amongst greyhounds, and is thought to be a variation of horse influenza. It is an airborne disease and is most likely to be found where many dogs are housed in close proximity to each other. Roughly 16% of dogs who are exposed to the disease develop symptoms, and of these cases, about 6% prove fatal.
The symptoms of canine influenza are a high fever, coughing and sneezing, a runny nose, excessive lethargy or depression and a lack of appetite. Of course, many other illnesses are characterised by coughing and sneezing so you shouldn't immediately assume your dog has influenza, but if you are concerned you should consult your veterinarian, particularly of your dog's temperature reaches 106 degrees.
Canine influenza is a virus and therefore does not respond to antibiotics. In severe cases, the damage to the respiratory system leads to a secondary pneumonia infection, and it is this that usually causes deaths. Pneumonia is treatable with antibiotics and a high fluid intake, so the number of fatal cases of influenza can be reduced. Research into a vaccine for canine influenza is currently in progress, but it may not be available for another couple of years.
If you are planning on leaving your dog in kennels you should check their policy on respiratory infections. Ask whether they isolate any dog that develops an infection, whether it is influenza or something less harmful such as kennel cough. Also make sure that they will inform you if your dog has come into contact with another dog with a respiratory infection.
A recent case in Pittsburgh saw the high quality boarding facility, Misty Pines, temporarily closed because thirty of their dogs developed canine influenza. None of the dogs died and the facility was reopened once the infection had run its course. Canine influenza is only infectious for ten days and has an incubation period of two to five days so it is perfectly safe for dogs to board there again now the infection has gone.
Although the infection is more common in places where dogs are grouped together, you shouldn't let this put you off buying a dog from a shelter. You will, however, want to check the shelter's policy on new arrivals. Do they isolate them for the first few days to ensure they don't have the infection? If you already have a dog at home, you may want to keep your new pet separate from them for a few days just to be on the safe side.
Canine influenza does not pose any risk to humans as they cannot become infected. However it is believed that humans can carry the virus on their hands, clothes and shoes so you should be aware of this. In some cases it is believed that employees of dog shelters or kennels have transmitted the virus to their own dogs in this way.
Although canine influenza is clearly an issue that you should be aware of, and take precautions against, you should not let it stop your dog from living life as usual. And you should not stop using your usual pet facilities. If you want to find out about any outbreaks of the virus in your area contact your local veterinarian or the state veterinary medical association, who will be able to give you local information and some peace of mind.
2008年8月7日星期四
Save Your Furniture, Your Sanity, and Your Cat's Claws!
New cats and kittens are a fantastic addition to any family. But after you've bought the litter box it's time to worry about the furniture. You see, cats love to scratch. They actually need to scratch and if you're not careful they can quickly ruin your prized furniture. But before you give up hope, there are things you can do to protect your furniture without having your cat de-clawed.
You need to encourage your cat to scratch a scratching post rather than your furniture. An understanding of why cats scratch will help us here!!
Cats scratch for many reasons. They scratch as a way to exercise and tone their muscles. They also scratch as a way to stretch. They have scent glands in their paws so cats scratch to scent and mark their territory. They love to dig their claws into the post, (or your furniture!), not because they want to ruin it but as a way to clean and sharpen their claws. Oh, we almost forgot, they scratch and claw because it feels sooooooo good!!
So you can see that scratching is a cat's natural behavior and should be supported and encouraged to keep your cat fit and healthy. If your cat is scratching the furniture you'll find that physical punishment does not work and will alienate your cat. Sometimes a stern word or a loud clap will stop kitty while you're there, but what happens when you're gone?
For a happy cat and a harmonious household with intact furniture the following tips may be of use:
The most important thing you can do is to buy a scratching post BEFORE you get the cat. This way the post will be an integral part of the cat's environment when it arrives. Once a cat has established a behavior it's very hard to break.
Ideally buy more than one post and place them in the areas that you think the cat will use most often. At a minimum place one near where the cat will sleep. Cats love to stretch when they wake up, who doesn't.
Buy a stable post, one that doesn't wobble and feels very sturdy. Cats really dislike instability and if the post falls over it's very unlikely the cat will ever use that post again. Look for a good solid base and the post should feel well made, not flimsy.
Place a post in your main family area. Your cat wants to be part of the family spend time with you. There's nothing nicer than a cap napping in your lap on a winter's day. After a hard hour or so sleeping in your lap its time to stretch. I hope there's a post nearby, or there goes the furniture!
At the outset you will need to encourage the cat to scratch the post. You don't need to show your cat how to scratch: it already knows!! Try rubbing some cat nip on the post, or tie toys and string on the post. Play with the cat around the post so that it gets used to clawing the post. Trailing yarn or string up the spot will encourage clawing and is my favorite method!
Make sure the post is big enough. Your cat should be able to fully stretch on the post, so look at a minimum height of 3 feet. Cats love to dig in their front claws and arch their back to stretch their front legs. This is difficult to do if the post is too short. Beware, if the post is too short then your cat will find out that human furniture is an ideal height!
Play with your cat. Keep it happy and entertained, especially around the posts and it will be less likely to take it out on your furniture!
Finally get a post that is course and can be destroyed. Cats love rough surfaces. They will happily pull and tear at their post and enjoy watching it deteriorate. Nylon backed carpet makes an excellent post covering, as does sisal rope. A cat can really get its claws into both these materials. If you currently have a cat which is scratching and clawing the furniture then look for a post made from similar material. If you can't find the ideal post try making your own.
You need to encourage your cat to scratch a scratching post rather than your furniture. An understanding of why cats scratch will help us here!!
Cats scratch for many reasons. They scratch as a way to exercise and tone their muscles. They also scratch as a way to stretch. They have scent glands in their paws so cats scratch to scent and mark their territory. They love to dig their claws into the post, (or your furniture!), not because they want to ruin it but as a way to clean and sharpen their claws. Oh, we almost forgot, they scratch and claw because it feels sooooooo good!!
So you can see that scratching is a cat's natural behavior and should be supported and encouraged to keep your cat fit and healthy. If your cat is scratching the furniture you'll find that physical punishment does not work and will alienate your cat. Sometimes a stern word or a loud clap will stop kitty while you're there, but what happens when you're gone?
For a happy cat and a harmonious household with intact furniture the following tips may be of use:
The most important thing you can do is to buy a scratching post BEFORE you get the cat. This way the post will be an integral part of the cat's environment when it arrives. Once a cat has established a behavior it's very hard to break.
Ideally buy more than one post and place them in the areas that you think the cat will use most often. At a minimum place one near where the cat will sleep. Cats love to stretch when they wake up, who doesn't.
Buy a stable post, one that doesn't wobble and feels very sturdy. Cats really dislike instability and if the post falls over it's very unlikely the cat will ever use that post again. Look for a good solid base and the post should feel well made, not flimsy.
Place a post in your main family area. Your cat wants to be part of the family spend time with you. There's nothing nicer than a cap napping in your lap on a winter's day. After a hard hour or so sleeping in your lap its time to stretch. I hope there's a post nearby, or there goes the furniture!
At the outset you will need to encourage the cat to scratch the post. You don't need to show your cat how to scratch: it already knows!! Try rubbing some cat nip on the post, or tie toys and string on the post. Play with the cat around the post so that it gets used to clawing the post. Trailing yarn or string up the spot will encourage clawing and is my favorite method!
Make sure the post is big enough. Your cat should be able to fully stretch on the post, so look at a minimum height of 3 feet. Cats love to dig in their front claws and arch their back to stretch their front legs. This is difficult to do if the post is too short. Beware, if the post is too short then your cat will find out that human furniture is an ideal height!
Play with your cat. Keep it happy and entertained, especially around the posts and it will be less likely to take it out on your furniture!
Finally get a post that is course and can be destroyed. Cats love rough surfaces. They will happily pull and tear at their post and enjoy watching it deteriorate. Nylon backed carpet makes an excellent post covering, as does sisal rope. A cat can really get its claws into both these materials. If you currently have a cat which is scratching and clawing the furniture then look for a post made from similar material. If you can't find the ideal post try making your own.
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