Pigs were domesticated thousands of years ago. They are farmed for their meat and hides. There are still many wild pigs, like the wild boar, the warthog, and the bushpig. Pigs are found on every continent on Earth except Antarctica.
Names: Pigs are also called hogs or swine. The adult female is called a sow. The adult male is called a boar. A baby is called a piglet.
Anatomy: Pigs vary in color from brown, black, white, to pinkish. Some wild pigs have large tusks, overgrown teeth used for fighting and digging for food.
Diet: Pigs are omnivores . They eat a variety of plants and small animals.
Classification: Class Mammalia, Order Artiodactyla, Family Suidae.
A pig has a snout for a nose, small eyes, and a small tail, which may be curly, kinked, or straight. It has a thick body, short legs, and coarse hair. There are four toes on each foot, with the two large middle toes used for walking.
pigs are omnivores, which means that they consume both plants and animals. Pigs will scavenge and have been known to eat any kind of food, including dead insects, worms, tree bark, rotting carcasses, garbage, and even other pigs. In the wild, they are foraging animals, primarily eating leaves, grasses, roots, fruits and flowers. Occasionally while in captivity, pigs may eat their own young if they become severely stressed. A typical pigs has a large head with a long snout which is strengthened by a special bone called the prenasal bone and by a disk of cartilage in the tip.The snout is used to dig into the soil to find food and is a very sensitive sense organ.
Pigs have a full set of 44 teeth. The canine teeth, called tusks, grow continually and are sharpened by the lowers and uppers rubbing against each other.
Pigs that are allowed to forage may be watched by swineherds. Because of their foraging abilities and excellent sense of smell, they are used to find truffles in many European countries. Domesticated pigs are commonly raised as livestock by farmers for meat , as well as for leather. Their bristly hairs are also used for brushes. Some breeds of pigs, such as the Asian pot-bellied pigs, are kept as pets.
Breeding occurs throughout the year in the tropics, but births peak around rainy seasons. A female pigs can become pregnant at around 8-18 months of age. She will then go into estrus every 21 days if not bred. Male pigs become sexually active at 8-10 months of age. A litter of piglets typically contains between 6 and 12 piglets. After the young are weaned, two or more families may come together until the next mating season.
Pigs do not have functional sweat glands,so pigs cool themselves using water or mud during hot weather. They also use mud as a form of sunscreen to protect their skin from sunburn. Mud also provides protection against flies and parasites.
for:http://www.pigs-house.com
2008年9月17日星期三
2008年9月5日星期五
Breaking Your Pit Bull Terrier's Jumping Habit: Dog Training Help
As you have probably already learned, Pit Bulls are highly energetic animals. They love to run and play, and get excited easily. One of the more annoying habits they develop at a young age is jumping. Jumping can be particularly annoying when they do it as a way of greeting, especially if it is young child or someone who is afraid of dogs. Teaching your Pit Bull to curb this behavior is not an easy task, but is your responsibility as a Pit Bull owner.
Many people have stopped their Pit Bulls from jumping on them by using treats. When they come inside, they throw some treats on the floor, and then greet their dog while his attention is fixed on the treats. The treats usually work as a good distraction to pull your Pit Bull’s attention away from jumping on you. If you don’t like using treats to train your Pit Bull, or if the method just doesn’t work well for you, then you have to try other ideas to train your Pit Bull not to jump.
One thing you can try is teaching your Pit Bull that it is nicer to sit than jump. Go outside, leaving your Pit Bull inside, then come back in and calmly greet him. If your Pit Bull starts to jump on you, turn your back to him, and ignore him. When your Pit Bull puts all four feet back on the floor, turn back around and pet him. If he starts to jump on you again, turn back around and ignore him. This will teach your Pit Bull that when he jumps, he doesn’t get any attention, but that if he sits nicely you will pet him. This technique may take quite a while for your Pit Bull to learn, especially if he is a very excitable dog. But, if you stick with it long enough, he should learn that jumping is not going to gain him anything other than losing your attention. Once you get your Pit Bull thru this step, try to teach him to sit still for a few moments before you acknowledge him. If he gets up, use the same routine of ignoring him, and then when he sits down, pet him again. This would also be a good time to try to teach him to shake hands when he greets people, rather than jumping on them.
You can also further entice your Pit Bull to not jump by tempting him and then rewarding and praising him for his good behavior. Hold treats up in the air so that your Pit Bull will have to jump to get them. If he jumps, ignore him, and when he is calm try again. When he is able to remain seated, praise him, give him the treats, and some extra attention. He will soon learn that by behaving the way you want him to, he will not only get extra attention, but some extra treats as well, which is double incentive for him to obey.
Another method that tends to work well in teaching your Pit Bull not to jump is to have a designated place for your Pit Bull, and teach him to go there when you need him to, for example, when someone is at the door. To start this training, you will need to pick the spot, and put maybe a bed or blanket and some of his favorite toys there. When the spot is ready, spend some time with him while he is there. Giving him special attention and treats will help him attribute the spot as a good place that he wants to spend time at. As your Pit Bull becomes accustomed to his place, start sending him there occasionally. At first, you will want to be close to the spot, and eventually move farther and farther away from it as your dog learns. Make it a point to give him special attention and treats each time he goes to his spot when you ask him to. Eventually, your Pit Bull will learn that by going to his spot when you ask him to, that you will reward him for it.
The biggest thing you can do to help your Pit Bull learn not to jump is to keep your own greetings calm. I know it is hard when you have been away from him all day not to come in and play and wrestle with him, but this will only get him more excited, and he will expect this same attention from everyone that enters the house. Until you can completely break the jumping habit, it may be best to ignore him for the first few minutes you come home, and then play with him once he settles down. It may take a little time, but your Pit Bull will soon learn how to tone down his excitement.
Many people have stopped their Pit Bulls from jumping on them by using treats. When they come inside, they throw some treats on the floor, and then greet their dog while his attention is fixed on the treats. The treats usually work as a good distraction to pull your Pit Bull’s attention away from jumping on you. If you don’t like using treats to train your Pit Bull, or if the method just doesn’t work well for you, then you have to try other ideas to train your Pit Bull not to jump.
One thing you can try is teaching your Pit Bull that it is nicer to sit than jump. Go outside, leaving your Pit Bull inside, then come back in and calmly greet him. If your Pit Bull starts to jump on you, turn your back to him, and ignore him. When your Pit Bull puts all four feet back on the floor, turn back around and pet him. If he starts to jump on you again, turn back around and ignore him. This will teach your Pit Bull that when he jumps, he doesn’t get any attention, but that if he sits nicely you will pet him. This technique may take quite a while for your Pit Bull to learn, especially if he is a very excitable dog. But, if you stick with it long enough, he should learn that jumping is not going to gain him anything other than losing your attention. Once you get your Pit Bull thru this step, try to teach him to sit still for a few moments before you acknowledge him. If he gets up, use the same routine of ignoring him, and then when he sits down, pet him again. This would also be a good time to try to teach him to shake hands when he greets people, rather than jumping on them.
You can also further entice your Pit Bull to not jump by tempting him and then rewarding and praising him for his good behavior. Hold treats up in the air so that your Pit Bull will have to jump to get them. If he jumps, ignore him, and when he is calm try again. When he is able to remain seated, praise him, give him the treats, and some extra attention. He will soon learn that by behaving the way you want him to, he will not only get extra attention, but some extra treats as well, which is double incentive for him to obey.
Another method that tends to work well in teaching your Pit Bull not to jump is to have a designated place for your Pit Bull, and teach him to go there when you need him to, for example, when someone is at the door. To start this training, you will need to pick the spot, and put maybe a bed or blanket and some of his favorite toys there. When the spot is ready, spend some time with him while he is there. Giving him special attention and treats will help him attribute the spot as a good place that he wants to spend time at. As your Pit Bull becomes accustomed to his place, start sending him there occasionally. At first, you will want to be close to the spot, and eventually move farther and farther away from it as your dog learns. Make it a point to give him special attention and treats each time he goes to his spot when you ask him to. Eventually, your Pit Bull will learn that by going to his spot when you ask him to, that you will reward him for it.
The biggest thing you can do to help your Pit Bull learn not to jump is to keep your own greetings calm. I know it is hard when you have been away from him all day not to come in and play and wrestle with him, but this will only get him more excited, and he will expect this same attention from everyone that enters the house. Until you can completely break the jumping habit, it may be best to ignore him for the first few minutes you come home, and then play with him once he settles down. It may take a little time, but your Pit Bull will soon learn how to tone down his excitement.
2008年9月2日星期二
Horse Breeds - Types of Warmbloods
Warmbloods are amazing animals. They are some of the most beautiful horses in the world, with a versatility that is unbelievable. Warmbloods, unlike what many people think, are a true breed. All of the studbooks are closed. What this means is only a horse of that breed can be registered in that studbook. The only exception is individuals of other breeding that are deemed to be able to improve the bloodline of the current breed. This is shown through performance records and the success of offspring in competition. The recent opening of the Trakhener studbook is due to a loss in type of modern Trakheners. There are various types of Warmbloods:
The Hanoverian
The Hanoverian’s originate from Germany. There primary use is for dressage and show jumping. These horses are mildly temperamental, with more of a calmness in nature than many horse breeds. The most common coloring in the Hanoverian are Chestnut, Bay and Grey.
The Hanoverian Horse is a well built, well put together horse with much success in the disciplines of dressage and show jumping. This breed tends to be very versatile.
The Holsteiner
The Holsteiner originates from Germany, usually reaching 16 to 17 hands. These horses are mildly temperamental and are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. They tend to usually be bay in color, but mostly any solid coloring. Most Hosteiners have a defined canter that tends to be very expressive, but lacks an impressiveness at the trot. They are typically well known as excellent jumpers but have made their imprint on the dressage community.
Dutch Warmblood
The Dutch Warmblood’s originate from Holland and are very easy going, typically calm in nature. These good tempered horses are built well running around 16 to 17 hands. They are known to excel at whatever discipline they are trained by.
Friesian
The Friesians originate from Holland and Germany with the studbook now kept in Germany, the FPZ. They are mildly temperamental growing to a huge size of 17 hands. They are primarily used for Dressage and reining but are sometimes seen on the show jumping circuit. These horses are also used for trick training, being widely versatile and very easily trainable. There are distinct characteristics of the Friesians. Baroque, which is mainly upright, with higher action and more feathering with a heavier mane and tail. Traditional, which is heavier and more drafty usually used for driving, and Sport Horse, which is used for all types of riding and driving. These horses are amazing. Very versatile with a very calm temperament for such an enormous horse.
Swedish Warmblood
The Swedish Warmbloods originate from Sweden, obviously. They will grow to be 16 to 17 hands. The are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. There coloring is all solid, predominantly Chestnut. The Swedish Warmbloods are one of the youngest warmblood breeds , so true “type” is not quite defined. Mainly having solid movements, with the conformation and their temperament being highly variable.
Trakhener
The Trakheners originate from Poland and East Prissuia. They tend to be a little more temperamental than a lot of other warmbloods. They are used for dressage, jumping and eventing. Coloring is mainly solid with defined characteristics of nice movements with good push from behind. They tend to be a bit stubborn and even difficult at times. Although there are some very lovely Trakheners. This breed possess a strong competitive drive owing perhaps to the large amount of Thoroughbred blood most carry. This is the only studbook still “open” in an attempt to further refine and define the Trakhener breed.
Oldenburg
The Oldenburgs originate from Germany. They grown to the large size of 16 to 17 hands. These horses are very calm and loveable. There coloring is solid but any color. They are primarily used for dressage and jumping. They were the first studbook with an American Division. Interestingly enough, all American Warmbloods approved by the ISR are registered as Oldenburgs, regardless of their actual parentage.
Andalusians
The Andalusians originate from Spain. They are smaller in height, ranging from 14.3 to 16 hands. They are used for dressage, bullfighting, parades and trick training. They come in solid colors, including mulberry. Bay and grey are the most common. Black and Dun are the least common. Andalusians are classically styled Baroque horses. They have thick manes and tails and tend to have high , lofty actions for their size. The Spanish Olympic Team was comprised entirely of Andalusians for the 2000 Games.
Horses are an amazing animal, no matter what the breed or bloodlines. They love their owners and one forms an attachment to their horse like no other. I couldn’t imagine my life without my horse.
The Hanoverian
The Hanoverian’s originate from Germany. There primary use is for dressage and show jumping. These horses are mildly temperamental, with more of a calmness in nature than many horse breeds. The most common coloring in the Hanoverian are Chestnut, Bay and Grey.
The Hanoverian Horse is a well built, well put together horse with much success in the disciplines of dressage and show jumping. This breed tends to be very versatile.
The Holsteiner
The Holsteiner originates from Germany, usually reaching 16 to 17 hands. These horses are mildly temperamental and are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. They tend to usually be bay in color, but mostly any solid coloring. Most Hosteiners have a defined canter that tends to be very expressive, but lacks an impressiveness at the trot. They are typically well known as excellent jumpers but have made their imprint on the dressage community.
Dutch Warmblood
The Dutch Warmblood’s originate from Holland and are very easy going, typically calm in nature. These good tempered horses are built well running around 16 to 17 hands. They are known to excel at whatever discipline they are trained by.
Friesian
The Friesians originate from Holland and Germany with the studbook now kept in Germany, the FPZ. They are mildly temperamental growing to a huge size of 17 hands. They are primarily used for Dressage and reining but are sometimes seen on the show jumping circuit. These horses are also used for trick training, being widely versatile and very easily trainable. There are distinct characteristics of the Friesians. Baroque, which is mainly upright, with higher action and more feathering with a heavier mane and tail. Traditional, which is heavier and more drafty usually used for driving, and Sport Horse, which is used for all types of riding and driving. These horses are amazing. Very versatile with a very calm temperament for such an enormous horse.
Swedish Warmblood
The Swedish Warmbloods originate from Sweden, obviously. They will grow to be 16 to 17 hands. The are used for show jumping, dressage and reining. There coloring is all solid, predominantly Chestnut. The Swedish Warmbloods are one of the youngest warmblood breeds , so true “type” is not quite defined. Mainly having solid movements, with the conformation and their temperament being highly variable.
Trakhener
The Trakheners originate from Poland and East Prissuia. They tend to be a little more temperamental than a lot of other warmbloods. They are used for dressage, jumping and eventing. Coloring is mainly solid with defined characteristics of nice movements with good push from behind. They tend to be a bit stubborn and even difficult at times. Although there are some very lovely Trakheners. This breed possess a strong competitive drive owing perhaps to the large amount of Thoroughbred blood most carry. This is the only studbook still “open” in an attempt to further refine and define the Trakhener breed.
Oldenburg
The Oldenburgs originate from Germany. They grown to the large size of 16 to 17 hands. These horses are very calm and loveable. There coloring is solid but any color. They are primarily used for dressage and jumping. They were the first studbook with an American Division. Interestingly enough, all American Warmbloods approved by the ISR are registered as Oldenburgs, regardless of their actual parentage.
Andalusians
The Andalusians originate from Spain. They are smaller in height, ranging from 14.3 to 16 hands. They are used for dressage, bullfighting, parades and trick training. They come in solid colors, including mulberry. Bay and grey are the most common. Black and Dun are the least common. Andalusians are classically styled Baroque horses. They have thick manes and tails and tend to have high , lofty actions for their size. The Spanish Olympic Team was comprised entirely of Andalusians for the 2000 Games.
Horses are an amazing animal, no matter what the breed or bloodlines. They love their owners and one forms an attachment to their horse like no other. I couldn’t imagine my life without my horse.
2008年8月24日星期日
The Importance of Keeping a Bird Watching Life List
The bird watching life list is a record kept by the birders. This also serves as a tracker device for the people involved in the activity and for those who are conducting related studies. And this is a very important tool for those who love the action and actually has the passion for such.
Bird Watchers
The people that are being categorized as bird watchers are those who are only starting out. Everybody who is into this activity first become a bird watcher or just a mere observer. Their curiosity actually lead them to look and then look more until they've developed a habit of looking farther to see what the birds are doing and how they do it.
For such type, a journal would be fine. This is where they jot down their observations for the purpose of not forgetting. These notes would actually be helpful if they take their hobby to a different level, by being a birder. But for now, let the simple note taking do it for them. Theirs is more simple task because what they see is far from scientific because they still don't have the equipment and the ability to see beyond what their naked eyes seem to tell them.
Birders
These are the more passionate people about the craft. They are not merely hobbyists, they do this to study and relate their observation with scientific research. This group would invest on materials to strengthen their claims. They are always on the lookout for the newest technology that could help them navigate more thoroughly. Birders go where the birds are.
Through research, they go the extra mile to travel where the birds that they haven't seen or haven't been seen by many are situated. The keep track of what happened on their journey. They take notes along the way.
Life List
This is what the electronic or written records contain. Such things can be done by the birders. As they search for the species, the venues in which they could find more types, and looking out for yet to be discovered kinds of birds, they contain it all in a life list.
The information in a life list should include where a certain type of bird was seen, classifying the bird and the date when it was seen. Noting what the bird's usual activities are and how they went on about such is also part of this.
The birders have variety and long list of this kind. It shows their history as an enthusiast of how far they have gone in terms of the activity and how much they have already seen and learned in the process.
They can always go back to this data to change or modify some information depending on their further observation. This is the reason why as days or years go by and as the number of life lists being made by a birder piles up the data gear more towards being scientific because more proofs are available when anyone tries to contest what was recorded.
Keeping a bird watching life list would also benefit people in the future. As the study about the different types of birds become more and more varied, people can always refer on the information provided by the birders on this list for further researches to become more and more accurate.
Bird Watchers
The people that are being categorized as bird watchers are those who are only starting out. Everybody who is into this activity first become a bird watcher or just a mere observer. Their curiosity actually lead them to look and then look more until they've developed a habit of looking farther to see what the birds are doing and how they do it.
For such type, a journal would be fine. This is where they jot down their observations for the purpose of not forgetting. These notes would actually be helpful if they take their hobby to a different level, by being a birder. But for now, let the simple note taking do it for them. Theirs is more simple task because what they see is far from scientific because they still don't have the equipment and the ability to see beyond what their naked eyes seem to tell them.
Birders
These are the more passionate people about the craft. They are not merely hobbyists, they do this to study and relate their observation with scientific research. This group would invest on materials to strengthen their claims. They are always on the lookout for the newest technology that could help them navigate more thoroughly. Birders go where the birds are.
Through research, they go the extra mile to travel where the birds that they haven't seen or haven't been seen by many are situated. The keep track of what happened on their journey. They take notes along the way.
Life List
This is what the electronic or written records contain. Such things can be done by the birders. As they search for the species, the venues in which they could find more types, and looking out for yet to be discovered kinds of birds, they contain it all in a life list.
The information in a life list should include where a certain type of bird was seen, classifying the bird and the date when it was seen. Noting what the bird's usual activities are and how they went on about such is also part of this.
The birders have variety and long list of this kind. It shows their history as an enthusiast of how far they have gone in terms of the activity and how much they have already seen and learned in the process.
They can always go back to this data to change or modify some information depending on their further observation. This is the reason why as days or years go by and as the number of life lists being made by a birder piles up the data gear more towards being scientific because more proofs are available when anyone tries to contest what was recorded.
Keeping a bird watching life list would also benefit people in the future. As the study about the different types of birds become more and more varied, people can always refer on the information provided by the birders on this list for further researches to become more and more accurate.
2008年8月19日星期二
Horses and Training Techniques To Use
Horses can be boarded at a commercial stable; however, keeping a horse on your property provides you with more management control, and saves you money.
Let your child know that the owner of the horse should be ready to take on the responsibilities of grooming, exercising, feeding, washing, playing with and caring for the animal.
Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while it's gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.
Let's talk a little about your horse and the time it's going to take to get him from where he is at now to being a green broke horse. Now your horse is starting to think, “Great! That’s all he wanted.
It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree he’s worth it.
No matter your horsey interest, these terms are regularly tossed about the barn; learn them and you will be well on your way to interpreting the horse world language. After this is done, use a damp sponge or cotton to clean the eyes and nose of the horse.
Having good control leading your horse is perhaps the most basic training technique there is. Very quickly, the horse associates the word "whoa" with slowing down instead of stopping.
I would like you to remember that when I use terms such as horse training and natural horsemanship I am actually referring to playing with your horse. One must equal the other, rider and animal, because no matter how well trained the horse, if the rider does not understand this training, then the horse will not work well.
Let your child know that the owner of the horse should be ready to take on the responsibilities of grooming, exercising, feeding, washing, playing with and caring for the animal.
Once the horse has learned to come to handler at the command of "Come Here" and shows no fear of the whip while it's gently waved over his head and body, and will follow the handler all about the ring, then you have laid a good foundation for further instruction.
Let's talk a little about your horse and the time it's going to take to get him from where he is at now to being a green broke horse. Now your horse is starting to think, “Great! That’s all he wanted.
It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree he’s worth it.
No matter your horsey interest, these terms are regularly tossed about the barn; learn them and you will be well on your way to interpreting the horse world language. After this is done, use a damp sponge or cotton to clean the eyes and nose of the horse.
Having good control leading your horse is perhaps the most basic training technique there is. Very quickly, the horse associates the word "whoa" with slowing down instead of stopping.
I would like you to remember that when I use terms such as horse training and natural horsemanship I am actually referring to playing with your horse. One must equal the other, rider and animal, because no matter how well trained the horse, if the rider does not understand this training, then the horse will not work well.
2008年8月12日星期二
Soft Or Hard Dog Food – Which Is Best?
Sometimes dog owners are faced with a dilemma regarding what type pf dog food to provide their dogs. Dogs themselves tend to prefer the moist, canned types of food. They are more aromatic and naturally tempting to the dog’s palate than the dry kibble that comes in a bag. A dog’s dental health, however, relies on the dog being able to chew hard and crunchy items and dry kibble foods serve this purpose well. What’s an owner to do?
Some owners make a two pronged approach when selecting dog food for their furry friends. They will mix a portion of dry food with canned, effectively giving their dog the “best of both worlds.” If you are feeding canned food to your dog, you’ll definitely want to supplement it in some way with something that the dog can chew and crunch. Chew toys and dog biscuits or treats can help to serve this purpose.
Remember that a dog’s health depends greatly on the nutritional value of its food. A dog is only as healthy as the food that it eats, in many respects. The food you buy for your dog should meet its nutritional needs as best as possible, whether it is dry or moist. Unfortunately when it comes to dog food you get what you pay for. Store brands and generics tend to be made with cheaper ingredients and lots of fillers. They’ll feed your dog, but they may not be the best choices for it. The more expensive brands like Science Diet and Eukanuba which advertise that they are “specially formulated” really, to a certain extent, are. They will have higher quality ingredients and are better suited to meet your dog’s needs.
Truly, as long as you are providing a good method for your dog to work out its choppers on a regular basis, it doesn’t matter whether you’re using dry food or moist. During regular veterinary checkups your vet will examine the dog’s teeth and will warn you if there’s any issue that needs to be corrected by providing a different type of food or some dietary supplement.
The reason that dogs need to be able to chew on hard materials is twofold. It strengthens their teeth and works out the muscles of their jaw, keeping the teeth strong and the jaws powerful. It also provides a form of dental care. Owners should brush their dogs’ teeth at least twice a week. If this is not possible, however, crunchy foods like kibble and biscuits act as a sort of natural toothbrush for the dog, loosening plaque and tartar and cleaning the teeth.
Choosing the right food for your dog is important, both for the pooch’s nutritional needs and its good dental health. If you prefer to provide your dog the tastier soft, moist foods that come in a can that’s fine, just make sure you’re also providing something for Rover to really sink his teeth into.
Some owners make a two pronged approach when selecting dog food for their furry friends. They will mix a portion of dry food with canned, effectively giving their dog the “best of both worlds.” If you are feeding canned food to your dog, you’ll definitely want to supplement it in some way with something that the dog can chew and crunch. Chew toys and dog biscuits or treats can help to serve this purpose.
Remember that a dog’s health depends greatly on the nutritional value of its food. A dog is only as healthy as the food that it eats, in many respects. The food you buy for your dog should meet its nutritional needs as best as possible, whether it is dry or moist. Unfortunately when it comes to dog food you get what you pay for. Store brands and generics tend to be made with cheaper ingredients and lots of fillers. They’ll feed your dog, but they may not be the best choices for it. The more expensive brands like Science Diet and Eukanuba which advertise that they are “specially formulated” really, to a certain extent, are. They will have higher quality ingredients and are better suited to meet your dog’s needs.
Truly, as long as you are providing a good method for your dog to work out its choppers on a regular basis, it doesn’t matter whether you’re using dry food or moist. During regular veterinary checkups your vet will examine the dog’s teeth and will warn you if there’s any issue that needs to be corrected by providing a different type of food or some dietary supplement.
The reason that dogs need to be able to chew on hard materials is twofold. It strengthens their teeth and works out the muscles of their jaw, keeping the teeth strong and the jaws powerful. It also provides a form of dental care. Owners should brush their dogs’ teeth at least twice a week. If this is not possible, however, crunchy foods like kibble and biscuits act as a sort of natural toothbrush for the dog, loosening plaque and tartar and cleaning the teeth.
Choosing the right food for your dog is important, both for the pooch’s nutritional needs and its good dental health. If you prefer to provide your dog the tastier soft, moist foods that come in a can that’s fine, just make sure you’re also providing something for Rover to really sink his teeth into.
2008年8月11日星期一
Is Your Dog At Risk Of Canine Influenza?
Canine influenza is a fairly recent addition to the list of things we have to worry about when it comes to our dogs. Although the widespread epidemic of suggested by the media does not exist, it is certainly a disease that is spreading and that we should be aware of if we live or work with dogs.
It was discovered in Florida during research into the causes of kennel cough amongst greyhounds, and is thought to be a variation of horse influenza. It is an airborne disease and is most likely to be found where many dogs are housed in close proximity to each other. Roughly 16% of dogs who are exposed to the disease develop symptoms, and of these cases, about 6% prove fatal.
The symptoms of canine influenza are a high fever, coughing and sneezing, a runny nose, excessive lethargy or depression and a lack of appetite. Of course, many other illnesses are characterised by coughing and sneezing so you shouldn't immediately assume your dog has influenza, but if you are concerned you should consult your veterinarian, particularly of your dog's temperature reaches 106 degrees.
Canine influenza is a virus and therefore does not respond to antibiotics. In severe cases, the damage to the respiratory system leads to a secondary pneumonia infection, and it is this that usually causes deaths. Pneumonia is treatable with antibiotics and a high fluid intake, so the number of fatal cases of influenza can be reduced. Research into a vaccine for canine influenza is currently in progress, but it may not be available for another couple of years.
If you are planning on leaving your dog in kennels you should check their policy on respiratory infections. Ask whether they isolate any dog that develops an infection, whether it is influenza or something less harmful such as kennel cough. Also make sure that they will inform you if your dog has come into contact with another dog with a respiratory infection.
A recent case in Pittsburgh saw the high quality boarding facility, Misty Pines, temporarily closed because thirty of their dogs developed canine influenza. None of the dogs died and the facility was reopened once the infection had run its course. Canine influenza is only infectious for ten days and has an incubation period of two to five days so it is perfectly safe for dogs to board there again now the infection has gone.
Although the infection is more common in places where dogs are grouped together, you shouldn't let this put you off buying a dog from a shelter. You will, however, want to check the shelter's policy on new arrivals. Do they isolate them for the first few days to ensure they don't have the infection? If you already have a dog at home, you may want to keep your new pet separate from them for a few days just to be on the safe side.
Canine influenza does not pose any risk to humans as they cannot become infected. However it is believed that humans can carry the virus on their hands, clothes and shoes so you should be aware of this. In some cases it is believed that employees of dog shelters or kennels have transmitted the virus to their own dogs in this way.
Although canine influenza is clearly an issue that you should be aware of, and take precautions against, you should not let it stop your dog from living life as usual. And you should not stop using your usual pet facilities. If you want to find out about any outbreaks of the virus in your area contact your local veterinarian or the state veterinary medical association, who will be able to give you local information and some peace of mind.
It was discovered in Florida during research into the causes of kennel cough amongst greyhounds, and is thought to be a variation of horse influenza. It is an airborne disease and is most likely to be found where many dogs are housed in close proximity to each other. Roughly 16% of dogs who are exposed to the disease develop symptoms, and of these cases, about 6% prove fatal.
The symptoms of canine influenza are a high fever, coughing and sneezing, a runny nose, excessive lethargy or depression and a lack of appetite. Of course, many other illnesses are characterised by coughing and sneezing so you shouldn't immediately assume your dog has influenza, but if you are concerned you should consult your veterinarian, particularly of your dog's temperature reaches 106 degrees.
Canine influenza is a virus and therefore does not respond to antibiotics. In severe cases, the damage to the respiratory system leads to a secondary pneumonia infection, and it is this that usually causes deaths. Pneumonia is treatable with antibiotics and a high fluid intake, so the number of fatal cases of influenza can be reduced. Research into a vaccine for canine influenza is currently in progress, but it may not be available for another couple of years.
If you are planning on leaving your dog in kennels you should check their policy on respiratory infections. Ask whether they isolate any dog that develops an infection, whether it is influenza or something less harmful such as kennel cough. Also make sure that they will inform you if your dog has come into contact with another dog with a respiratory infection.
A recent case in Pittsburgh saw the high quality boarding facility, Misty Pines, temporarily closed because thirty of their dogs developed canine influenza. None of the dogs died and the facility was reopened once the infection had run its course. Canine influenza is only infectious for ten days and has an incubation period of two to five days so it is perfectly safe for dogs to board there again now the infection has gone.
Although the infection is more common in places where dogs are grouped together, you shouldn't let this put you off buying a dog from a shelter. You will, however, want to check the shelter's policy on new arrivals. Do they isolate them for the first few days to ensure they don't have the infection? If you already have a dog at home, you may want to keep your new pet separate from them for a few days just to be on the safe side.
Canine influenza does not pose any risk to humans as they cannot become infected. However it is believed that humans can carry the virus on their hands, clothes and shoes so you should be aware of this. In some cases it is believed that employees of dog shelters or kennels have transmitted the virus to their own dogs in this way.
Although canine influenza is clearly an issue that you should be aware of, and take precautions against, you should not let it stop your dog from living life as usual. And you should not stop using your usual pet facilities. If you want to find out about any outbreaks of the virus in your area contact your local veterinarian or the state veterinary medical association, who will be able to give you local information and some peace of mind.
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